for the thermometer thechnic, we need nitric acid only 70% ? (not ok for 60/65/69.5%... not the same price)
for the thermometer thechnic, we need nitric acid only 70% ? (not ok for 60/65/69.5%... not the same price)
Ok, interesting. Where did you read that, I'd love to read it too! I expect the reaction to be downright violent, as reactions usually are with alu powder, but why should the reaction time affect the final product?
Al powder can explode
Yes, I guess so. But is mercury nitrate enough of an oxidizer to use alu powder as a fuel? I'm very careful with any powdered metals in combination with any sort of oxidizers, coming from the pyrotechnic scene.
After about 5 minutes, the foil lost its shine, became dull, and a small layer of gray sludge (aluminum hydroxide) collected at the bottom of the flask. After 10-15 minutes, the reaction stops, this can be seen by the cessation of gas evolution.
The following observation: 15 minutes after adding water to the aluminum foil and the mercury salt, I have a dark gray water solution with many small bubbles that form a foam. After I pour off the water, I hear the aluminum crackling and white smoke rising, a lot of white smoke.
Was I too early to drain the water, or too late?
I think too early
Hello;
just a little noob question about the quality of aluminum;
i read a lot about the "Reynolds Wrap® Aluminum Foil, Heavy Duty" , on internet i've found his Thickness are 23.62µm....
Thicknes are important ? in my country i have 11 & 15µ easily but don't find more in "standard shop"
How about doing a wash with HCl on the foil before adding the mercury nitrate? Wouldn't that remove any oxide layers stopping the reaction?
40µ but I don't know if it's 100% aluminum
This is not necessary for the reaction with the mercury salt and it would not prevent later oxidation of the foil with atmospheric oxygen.How about doing a wash with HCl on the foil before adding the mercury nitrate? Wouldn't that remove any oxide layers stopping the reaction?
check with the manufacturer to see what alloy is used.
99.5% Al is technical aluminum suitable for amalgam.
The thickness of the foil affects the reaction rate. Thick foil reacts slower than thin foil. Usually 15µ cooking foil is used, but thicker technical foil can be used.
99.5% Al is technical aluminum suitable for amalgam.
The thickness of the foil affects the reaction rate. Thick foil reacts slower than thin foil. Usually 15µ cooking foil is used, but thicker technical foil can be used.
About the price, I paid forAlloy : EN-AW 1050 A (Al 99,5) i think it's the good one
but it looks expensive to me
According to the information I found out, 99.5% Al is the highest quality foil that you can buy, aluminum foils always consist of alloys, 100% Al is not available. With industrial foils, however, you have the advantage of finding an indication of the alloy, which you do not have with normal kitchen aluminum foil.
Of course 100% foil cann't be, but what does that have to do with it?
It was about the quality of the choice of aluminum foil at the beginning, whether the thickness would be decisive, but much more important, I think, is the alloy that is used. And you will not find any specifications in kitchen foil, some have non-stick coatings or other innovations that lower the quality of the foil for our requirements.
Technical aluminum foil is my choice because you can be sure of the quality based on the information given. The thickness of the foil is more a personal reference what you prefer to use.
Of course I can use any foil where aluminum is written on it, but I also dry my solvents to have as little water as possible, then I also pay attention to such little things.
It is called concentrated nitric acid, whether it has 60% or 70% does not matter. It just should not have 100%, that is apparently not so reactive, so it is usually diluted to 60-70%. That's what I've been told.
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